So, You're Ready to Build a Rod. Is Your Wallet?

by Dick Zakrzewski

Portions of this article were originally part of a followup to a question on the Roundtable (see Bill of Material below). The question came from a relative newcomer to streetrodding. He was trying to gather information from more experienced folks on how much it would cost to build a rod. I took a rough cut based on my experience and estimated a cost of $41,000 assuming new parts. There are, however, many variables that will affect cost, hence many opportunities to reduce this rather intimidating price tag. The following are some ideas that any rodder can use to manage the cost of building a rod.

Shop for bargains

Look for show specials at national streetrod events, check the bargain tables at major retailers like Summit Racing (will occasionally offer returned, slightly damaged, or slightly used parts at good prices) or post what you need on our Fuzzy Dice Roundtable. Another bargain suggested by an SRS reader is to have some work done by your local auto-voc/tech center. They will only charge for parts and the work is supervised by the teacher. Our reader had a set of double hump heads re-done.

Install used stuff as-is

Buy a used motor, transmission and differential from a local salvage yard, clean them up, add a little paint and some chrome trim and install as-is. Just make sure you have a written agreement that if the motor smokes, the transmission slips and/or the differential whines you can exchange them for another. You're just out the clean-up time. You can also save some money by installing junk yard seats. I'm still using a pair of $25 junk yard Nisson Pulsar seats. There are some side benefits to using this used stuff. My coupe has a 3 5/8" chop and a 5" drop and I quickly learned that a 6'1" person can't see oncoming streetlights…so when I specify my permanent seats ($900) they will be 2" lower.

Delay purchases

Depending on what part of the country you live in, you can delay the installation of heating and air-conditioning. You can also delay the upholstery work and the finish painting…..all primer nostalgia rods are still in style.

Do-it -yourself

Limited only by your willingness to try, do as much as you can yourself. You may want to consider installing your own fuel lines and brake lines, priming and finish painting, upholstery, wiring, wheel alignment, etc. Check our articles data base for magazine articles or amazon.com for books on these subjects. Also check with you local career center for adult classes in auto repair and painting. Keep in mind they will have all the latest equipment including an OSHA approved paint booth and will allow you to work on your own car!

Substitute with less expensive

Save money by using less costly materials…paint suspension parts rather than using chrome and/or polished stainless steel. Also, use steel parts rather than stainless steel for gas tanks, steering universal joints, steering splined shafts, steering column floor mounts, etc.

This is by no means a complete list of cost trimming ideas, but it should go a long way in developing the correct cost saving mindset. Its definitely not necessary to have a big wallet to have big fun.

Bill of material based on new parts

Part	Price
Chassis	$6,000
Body (fiberglass)	$9,000
Engine (crate motor)	$3,000
Transmission	$1,000
Shifter & cables	$300
Differential	$2,000
Drive shaft	$100
Steering column, box, wheel, etc	$1,500
Tires & wheels	$2,000
Radiator (w/ condenser)	$650
Gas tank	$350
Exhaust system	$800
Emergency brake	$350
Upholstery	$5,000
Alternator	$100
Alternator & A/C brackets.	$250
Heating & air	$1,000
Wiring, gauges & fan	$1,700
Lights	$200
Body preparation and paint	$4,000
Miscellaneous (5%)	$1,900
Total	$41,200

Dick Z