Help!!! I own a 1942 Chevy Coupe which has an exceelent body,but a bad frame. I saw an article in Street Rod action a number of years ago where a guy swapped an S-10-frame underneath his 1941 Ford. I have also been told that a 60'70's El Camino frame will work as well. I don't have money for a custom frame but I do have lots of time and skill,. Is ther anyone out there who has completed such a swap? what did you use,how difficult was it ? and if youdid it over again what would you have done differently? Please help!!!
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Bernie

First of all since you have already considered removing the body, is the frame that far gone that it cant be repaired?
S10's are a common donor frame for many vehicles but remember...it is a truck. So it might need work if you are into that super low stance...which I hate anyway!
Just about any mid size GM frame from the 60's thru late 80's make great canditates but you have to do a bit of measuring and homework to see what will be the best for you. Those frames are also known for rot problems (particularly just before the rear kick-up and again just behind) so be very careful in your choice.
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Carl
Automotive gold is everywhere; you just have to learn how to dig for it

286merc the low stance is so we don't suffer from nosebleeds and altitude sickness. if nothing ever scrapes it sits to high.

Heck, if Im driving my 54 F-350 I want to be able to see over everyone. But my 53 Vicky is too low, hit both laker pipes in a friends driveway and broke both exhausts thankfully the Fenton headers survived.
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Carl
Automotive gold is everywhere; you just have to learn how to dig for it

Has to sit and ride RIGHT!
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Bernie

Bernie, it does sit right,rides right,handles right. http://rrtknight2.hypermart.net/rides/68phatrat.html

Carl, thanks for the info. especially the rot issue. Iwas not aware of that. There is a guy in Colo. that has a 60's vintage ELKY for sale,that Should work, however I was again not aware of this rot issue. Thanks
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Bernie

I have completed 2 frame swaps useing the Chevy S-10, Get ready for a lot of work, make sure you get a long wheel base truck (not Blazer). Or even a extended cab long wheel base pick up. The factory has what they call a fish mouth (I Think) Easy to see under cab. This is where they shorten the frames for short wheel base truck. If you grind the welds out of this spot ,cut the frame to your wheel base and this fish mouth helps to keep frame square. Make sure you measure good to keep every thing square. Then you will have to make all your body mounts,core support mount, mount your gas tank, Buy droped spindles & front springs. Rebuild the front suspenshion,have the rear springs rebuilt. They don't give away S-10 Frames either. Like i said a lot of work and a lot of money.Oh yea you will need a S-10 Blazer rear end (Bolts in ) Its a little wider and will fit your car better. If you need help when you do this let me know. I'll look and see how many hours it took me. Regards,HonestFrank
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"VEO DINDICE"

Thanks for the info. I was leaning toward the S-10 Frame. Although I've been in touch with a guy from CO. that has a 60's vintage ELKY for sale.

How many hours did you think you spent on this swap? do you like the ride? would you do anything differently? What did you pay for your chassis? What about the steering? I know it's not rack and pinon. What size tires did you end up running?
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Bernie

Hi Bernie
I used a 1983 and a 1991 Chevy S - 10 frames. I am not sure what an Elky is,But make sure you measure the wheel tread with. and wheel base.I forgot to look up how many hours around 40 i think, Ride is good (just like S-10 truck). Do differently Um..I would charge more $$$, it's a big job. Paid $500. for complete rolling frame with power steering. The S-10 power steering is excellent way nicer to drive than rack, I know one project used 15" on rear & 14" on front .The tire size is what fits good in you fender openings & the look you want. First car i did was a 1948 Chevy coupe I did the frame swap because some really messed up installing a camaro sub frame, The 2nd was a 1956 Chevy pick up that the owner just insisted on a frame swap (he thought it would be cheeper) Live & learn. The best and cheepest way to do this job of updating to modern IFS is to use a aftermarket (I like Fatmans )Mustang 2 custom crossmember. Hope this helps. Regards,HonestFrank
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"VEO DINDICE"

What year/years did you use???
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Bernie

I used a S10 extened frame for my swap on a 57 Studebaker Hawk. The width was perfect and the length had to be shortened by 2 inches. As for lowering, thats easy. Truckin' Magazine has a lot of ads for lowering kits, even air ride. The frame is very strong for those big HP engines(I've got a 454).

Bernie- Saw your post on the 42 frame swap. I did the swap with a 48 chev. coupe. The frame I used was a 83 chev caprice classic. Only because I had it. Bought the car for $250, drove it for 3 years, sold the tranny for $300 so you can see that this was a low dollar project. The wheel base was exactly the same. I cut about a foot off the back of the frame. I had to cut out the trunk because of the shape of the frame with the coil springs. The wheels were 4inches forther apart so I used wheels with the right offset. When I pulled the old body off I was carefull to move the master cylinder off to the side and then just attach it to the 48-instant power brakes. I also left the the powersteering pump hooked up then just attached it back to the engine-instant power steering. I had to move the engine back about 4 inches so the radiator could sit in the stock position. Very easy to do if you use an electric fuel pump. If you stay with a stock fuel pump like I did, you have to raise the engine up about 2 inches so the fuel pump will clear the frame. I teach auto mech at a local high school so a lot of the work was done by students.(strictly voluntary) I don't work on any of my projects during the week but do open the shop some evenings and every Sat.for the kids. Thats when my work gets done. The car might see the road this summer but I haven't started the body work yet. I bought the car for $12 when I was in high school 36 years ago. It was in great shape then but sitting in the woods for over 30 years has created some extra work. If you have any other questions e-mail me. Also, My 48 frame is perfect except that it has a 52 front suspension. I will give it to anyone that wants to come and haul it. I live in the upper penninsula of Michigan(about 8hours north or Detroit) Don J

Hi Teach, I think your project "frame Swap" is great ! I built my first Hot Rod in Trade School in 11th & 12th grade. A 1936 Pontiac, long time ago (1963) It was a great experence. It really changed my life,I always hated school
until they sent me 1/2 the school day to Auto School,I loved it. I have made my living working on cars and trucks since. I didn't get rich but i love getting up each day to go to work on Auto's. I'm sure your project will change some kids life also. GOD bless you. Regards,HonestFrank
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"VEO DINDICE"

On my dad's '42 Chevy Aerosedan (still had chrome, last before blackout models in '41) we took the stock frame and sliced/diced to get a Chrysler Cordoba to fit in. (Chrysler Cordobas -- the ultimate "pig" car, from headlight buckets for frenching to ??? other peices) The Cordoba suspension is torsion bar and once in, the built up 318 (cheap) was a cinch for bolting in. Rear end is a Cordoba too if memory serves me right (it's been 10 years now). Car rides great. It just depends on how bad off your frame is.
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Bradley Miller
http://morris.accesszone.com -- Honey I shrunk the street rod

I have a 80something mercury car frame under my 49 F1. It has the typical IFS and 9" rear. I had to shorten it and narrow the frame rails. This was actually considerably easy! I took lots of pictures of it! But I dont have a scanner, and I havent got them developed yet. Getting the frame to be the correct wheel base and mounting the engine and drive train is the least of your worries! In fact, thats the easiest part of it all! Getting the body parts to line up, now thats a challenge!
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Damn, I wish I had more time.
35 Ford Pick-Up