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body work
by zippen
Posted: 02/07/2001 15:10 EST

Maybe one of you body guys can give me so info on glass body.Before first shot of primer what sand paper should be used to scuff up body.Its gel coated and pretty smooth.
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mike

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RE: body work
by zzford
Posted: 02/07/2001 18:09 EST

I used #100 grit sand paper followed by Sherwin-Williams Ultrafill II. Ultrafill II is a high build primer surfacer that uses a catalyst.
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Fred aka ZZFord or 33Highboy

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RE: body work
by Dick Z
Posted: 02/08/2001 08:01 EST

Mike, I got a prep instruction with my Outlaw Performance glass body. I'll dig it out and post for you. It yielded excellent results. I'm curious as to why you didn't get something from your body builder.
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Dick Z

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RE: body work
by Dirk35
Posted: 02/08/2001 11:27 EST

http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl

Mike, Search the archives.
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Damn, I wish I had more time.
35 Ford Pick-Up

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RE: body work
by zippen
Posted: 02/08/2001 12:29 EST

Dick Z,
I got a 32 roadster body with a 33 front from Zipper Motors. It's well put together and was in good shape. He builds a nice rod but isn't big on paperwork. You have to know Darrell to appreciate that. Thanks for the post.
Mike
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mike

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RE: body work
by Dick Z
Posted: 02/08/2001 19:24 EST

Okay, I was able to find Outlaws "How to Prepare a Glass Car for Paint". Here goes...

The most common way to prepare a glass car for painting is the following. Block the mold seams first with 80 grit production paper dry. Then continue to block the whole car and fenders, etc with 80 grit. Be very sure every place on the car has a good dull finish to it. After sanding, place one coat of feather fill polyester primer surfacer, made by Evercoat, part no. 391, on all mold seam areas or any place sanded thru black gel coat. After doing this, place one coat on complete car and all glass parts. After proper drying time, block feather fill with 180 grit or 220 wet paper. Then continue with a good grade or laquer primer and finish paint.

I didn't follow this procedure exactly. I used 80 grit at the mold seams and dry sanded the entire body with 220 grit then primed the entire body with PPG's DP Epoxy Primer. I was apprehensive about sanding the entire body with 80 grit because I didn't want to damage any profiles and create sand scratches that would difficult to remove. Outlaw bodies are nearly perfect right from the factory. I had absolutely no problem with paint bonding to the body after sanding with 220 grit dry paper. If you need a filler, I would recommend Evercoat's polyester finishing and blending putty.

Don't forget to protect yourself from dust with the appropriate respirator.

I also suggest you do a search of our SRS article database. I know there's some good stuff in there.
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Dick Z

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RE: body work
by zippen
Posted: 02/09/2001 07:14 EST

Dick Z
Thank you for info very helpful I was a little worried about the 80 grid myself for same reason.My body is in good shape also zipper builds a good car.Thanks again.

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mike

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