I'm going to build an engine this winter for the Rat Rod and since I have a couple of 283's laying around I thought I may as well use them. What I will do is tell you guys what I want out of this engine and list some of the components and ideas that I have in mind. Then you guys comment on my views and give me yours. We all know that the 283 has a 3" stroke and a 3.875 bore. Therefore with a short stroke "compared to the 3.48 in a 350" it will not have an abundance of torque. But that is one of two things I'm after, the other is reliability. Reliability is paramount. I could care less about 1/4 mile times, but when I turn the key I want this thing to fire and get my butt home. I would like the engine to be along the lines of the old 302 Z-28 motors or the 327-350 hp Vette engines. Only thing is those engines ran 11-1 compression pistons. The car is a fiberglass (O my god!) '32 three window hi-boy, ( no power anything, Rat Rod remember), 9" Ford rear, 3:70 gears, turbo 350, 285-70r-15 rear tires (30" dia.). OK, here we go, any and all comments are welcome.

Chevy 283-- .030" over
Pistons-- 9 to 1 or 9.5 to 1 Does TRW still make them?

Heads-- I have a set of Power pack heads and a set of Fuelers or should I go with the Vortec heads? If so which ones?

Intake-- I have one off of a '66 327-350 hp vette I thought I would use it.

Exhaust Manifold-- Ram horns or block huggers? I have both.

Distributor-- HEI

Carb.-- 600 cfm

Cam--?????? Would like a flat tappet, hydraulic

Torque convertor-- Have the stock one from the 350 turbo.

OK, there you have it- remember reliability and torque. I am not going to spin this thing must past 6000rpm. Thank you very much for your time and trouble. RRM.

TRW makes a great rebuild kit for the 283 w/flat tops. A fresh 283 is very suprising in the power department. The power pac heads are the ticket, give em a 3 thou shave and a three angle valve job to perk them up. The vette manifold is a great choice because the runners will match the heads perfectly, have it shaved too to match what you remove from the heads, ask your machine shop to do the calculations for you. Decking the block may be a good thing to look into. 3.70 gear..Perfect for this combo, especially the light glass body {nuttin wrong wit dat} Definitly ram horns, no respectful rat rod could go without them. They breathe. Lite it with the HEI, cant go wrong with simplicity, lots of good mods for em anyway. The 600 is another good choice for power and reliability, jet to a 72, it`ll give ya a little more snot when ya need it. Go hydraulic for dependability and quiet running. a Comp 268 H is a good bumpstick for this application, get the whole kit. A good converter to use would be the B@M holeshot 2000. It`s a 12 inch and great for your application. These suggestions are tried and true, I built one of these a while back. It had a suprising amount of snap and remained reliable. Hope this helps ya.

edcroozer, that sounds just like the 283 that I built when I was in my teens. Course that's been about a hundred years ago. I bored it .030 over with Jahn's pistons and ran a Muncie 4 spd., and 600cfm Carter. No HEI though, just points. I don't think they had those electronic's back then. The engine ran strong, was dependable and it would get out an show it's stuff preettyy darn good. And I still build them about like that today with all Chevy small blocks. Turn key all the way and dependable. I had a cam that they refered to as the Z-28 experimental cam. Can't remember the numbers, but it kicked butt.
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Street is Neat! And Safety Inspections Keep It That Way!

hi,
have you had anything to do with summit cams, good or bad?
the one i was looking at for my 350ci was sum-k1103. at @.050", dur- int .214 ex. 224 /lift- int. .442 ex. .465, lobe separation is 112. this would be used with crane springs, retainers and locks. my intake is an edelbrock performer, headers; dynomax ceramic.
what are your thoughts on these specs? it is close to the comp cam 268h. good?-bad?
thanks rick :-)
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project...39 ford pickup

With all due respect to ED, who's ideas are good ones on rebuilding the 283, I have some other takes on this that might give you an alternative(s) and make you a happy rodder.

Even though the 283 is a great little thumper, you really have to turn those things for torque production. I think for the money that you are going to put into this car that a 350 would be a better investment, just my opinion. The blocks are available for next to nothing, and the aftermarket parts are more plentiful and cheap. There are many kits for rebuilding out there to choose from.

I like the Vortec heads over any stock head anytime...It's not that I necessarily disagree with ED on the heads, the power pack head are okay, but the Vortecs will outperform them at every corner big time, esp in the power and gas milage department. The heads of old are just antiquated when it comes to design and efficiency and by the time you have the other heads worked the difference in price is not a bunch. The Vortecs will require a special vortec intake to match...GMs or Ededbrocks vortec intakes are great for this. The Vortecs are the best bang for the buck that you can buy for a performance upgrade to your engine both in power and efficiency! Kinda cool with a ride with the Vortecs too.

The camshaft I would pic would be a comp cams XE 262 or 268. Get the full kit. The 262 would give you more down low power, but the 268 will give you a noticeable idle and mid to high range power lifts. Make sure to run at least 9.0 compression with these cams. If not, it makes the bottom end mushy to a certain extent.....esp the 268. I would not push past 9.5 CR with the 268 and 9.3 for the 262, whereas pump gas may be a problem in some areas. These figures are safe for pump gas applications.

My personal choice is not to run 600s on 283s. I have done this before and the throttle response, especially with other than a stock cam, make for a mushy bottom end. My choices have been 500s, the throttle response is much better and crisp. The 350 will take the 600 perfect. Usually just bolt on and go. The Edelbrocks are great for this application.

Ed has the HEI right. It's the most reliable ig system that you can put on and parts are available too. More fancy ig systems won't do anything buy lighten your wallet.

I like block hugger headers myself. There is nothing wrong with Ramshorn, but with a cam and Vortecs, the ramshorn will be your weakest link!

YOu can use a stock converter with any of my suggestions. As ed has pointed out, I would not use the stock converter with the 283/268H cam /and big carb....the low end will be soft....and therefore go up to at least a 2000 - 2300 for your applicaton. The 350 will not need a converter.

The combo that is here should give you another 60 to 70hp/ 60lbs of torque and just as reliable as the 283 for not alot more $$ invested.

Just another angle and idea. Have fun.
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Steve Jack
SOUTHEASTERN GOODGUYS REP

I think the 283 is the nicest little motor you will ever build(heck i would put the 283 stickers on it) Ed has the motor pegged,that little motor will give you good yank for little cash.I agree with everything in Eds combo and yes use those ram horns or send them to me.LOL Only thing i would change would be the HEI(its ugly on a rat rod and dont fit the profile).I think that old motor would look good with and old point style dist changed over to eletronic with a pertronix unit. Now you will have the whole old school pakage. As far a HOTRODJOE deal yep it would be a great motor( i dont understand the aftermarket parts are more plentiful and cheap deal as its the same basic motor) But a set of vortec heads and intake will cost what your whole motor will. Use what yah got and you will be pleasantly surprized. Hey at least your window sticker at the next show wont read the same as the 4000 other cars there. It will get real good MPG also. Have fun with it.Dare to be diff. You could put a small journal 327 crank in it and have a light weight 302(well 301 but close ) LOL Now that was a motor that could turn some rpms.
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Build it! Drive it! Sell! Next!

OK Steve, I`m gonna go to my room with no supper.

Ed.....Naaaaaaaaa.....don't do that ......I keep forgetting this is a ratrod! Maybe I should go to my room.

To lostandfound......331 with double humpers..pretty good, $400 later and complete Vortec upgrade....43hp/48ft-lbs torque and 3mpg better.....not too bad?

The Pertronix is perfect for the ratrod....I have one myself on my 34ford and my dad's 55.

Same thing with the ramshorn....perfect for the ratrod...but any more performance oriented...toss em or you wasting your performance money.
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Steve Jack
SOUTHEASTERN GOODGUYS REP

HOTRODJOE send me the vortec heads intake and ex for 400 bucks i am there.LOL castings cost more than the whole 283 motor.Sorry i love what he has ,its perfect rat rod mill.Do i get to go to bed now.I polished my rod again today,cause Eds too old to polish his.LOL I did like that 331 with pete jackson,man now that was yank!!!(b-gas 55 chevy)
Mikie
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Build it! Drive it! Sell! Next!

Mac PAW parts catolog 283, 327 cost more than 350. also rembember you should put hard seats in the old heads for unleaded gas. so weigh your options carefully.
remember the 350 will have a lot more torque. [old hotrodder adage NO SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBIC INCHES] Dave Pgh.

Okay, put a 350 in it, and say it's a 283. Who would know? Oh and don't forget the stickers...
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Street is Neat! And Safety Inspections Keep It That Way!

To HOTRODSRJ: Okay, so what does it involve to put on a set of Vortec heads, in place of the older style. Say a set of 305 Vortec on a 350? By the way I ran across an Engine Liquidation Sale. Some deals on some remanufactured crate engines, that are being sold. For long blocks, they range from $600.00 to 700.00. Short blocks from $250.00 to 425.00 and heads $100.00 to 125.00. The Longblock engines are Chevy's (2.0, 2.8, 3.0, 305, 350) Ford (200, 300, 302) AMC 258, Pont.(2.5), Buick 3300. The Short blocks are, Chrysler ( 4 cyl., & 318), Ford (170,300,302, 302 Roller & 3.8) Pont. 2.5. Heads are 350, 283,327,305 vortec, 4.5 Vortec, & 302. Most are $125.00 and are remanufactured. Can't say for sure how long they will be here, but appear to be going fast. Anybody interested, email me and I'll see what I can do for you.
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Street is Neat! And Safety Inspections Keep It That Way!

Back in the late 60's when I was in high school, I had a '59 Chevy Impala 2-door hardtop that I spent a lot of time reworking. I rebuilt the 283 with powerpack heads, flat top piston which gave 9.0:1 compression, a Corvette solid lifter cam (can't remember which one it was but it was not the big 327-365 hp cam), stock intake and exhaust manifolds and a Carter AFB. Behind it was a 3-speed manual on the floor and 4:11 gears. That little engine was a performer, and I could blow the doors off '58 Chevys with 348's. I would use the 327 heads as long as they don't have the big 2.02 valves rather than buy a set of Vortecs. It is money you won't have to spend and the difference in performance will be negligible. You will also retain the style of the ratrod with the older engine look. As per cam, that is a matter of personal choice and the characteristics you can live with and the sound you want. Forget the 350 and build the 283. With a steel crankshaft it will practically be bullet-proof and very dependable. Just another opinion . . .
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Lynn
'32 3W

what is a ratrod.....ratmotor?
rick :-(
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project...39 ford pickup

Rat rod is a lo buck approach and building to the owners desires. Avoiding trends. And an all out driver. All fun. The way it used to be.

edcroozer,
thanks for the definition, i thought it might be along those lines but hadn't heard the terminology until recently.
rick :-)
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project...39 ford pickup

First off I want to thank you guys for all your advice on this subject and the others that I have posted. Edcroozer, you hit the nail on the head. I am calling my rod a Rat Rod for the very reason you named, I am building it myself ( read that as fabricating as many parts as possible) the frame rails, all crossmembers, batwings, 4-bars,radiator shell and grill, etc,etc,etc.. And it is going to be a DRIVER!! I could give a hoot about a lousy trophy, camaraderie is the name of the game and helping one another like you guys help me with ideas and advice. I appreciate that. And another thing, take the steel versus fiberglass and shove it up your you know what. You guys want young people to get involved in this hobby and then turn aroung and heckle the guy because he doesn't have an original body. Let me tell you something, if it was not for the glass body I would not be buiding this car with the hopes of finishing it and maybe, just maybe, being accepted as one of your peers when I meet you at one of the shows. So the next time just bite your lip and pat the guy on the back and say NICE JOB! My two cents. Thanks again for your help. RRM