does anybody know the best (or any)way to get my doors to open and close properly(and line up).The car is a '35 chevy master sedan which was rodded in the '70's.
The doors are still wood framed,use the original hinges and latches etc(all four doors are suicide).
Any ideas guys would be greatfully recieved.
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tbucketdom

If your doors are not aligning up check to see if the wood between the body and frame are good! This will cause the doors not align up! Most guys replace this wood with metal! If this has been done replace door hinge pins! You can get them thru www.speedwaymotors.com!
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Mike,Charter DRSA Member

Thanks for your reply,all the wood is pretty sound,but you're right,steel has gotta be better!
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tbucketdom

You can buy Stainless hinge pins at I and I reproductions also. Usually a small ad in the back of most mags. Make sure the holes aren't wollered out causing extra play.
If it was rodded in the 70's and on the road, there's a good chance the wood in the bottom half of the doors are rotting from rain getting in and the joints loose from age and use. You probably need to pull out the wood and replace with square tubing. I rebuilt my doors before the floor was done. I tacked the doors shut using small flat washers to conform to the body, climbed inside and built the door skeleton, cut and ground off the tacks to open the door. Sounds crude but it worked for this shade tree Mech.

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Wear your seatbelt

Firstly thanks for your reply,
when you say use square tubing,how do you get it to follow the curve around say the leading edge of the door,also do you just frame up the inner face of the door leaving a gap between the tubing and the outer door skin?
thanks,
Dominic.
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tbucketdom

I did it three ways Dominic, for a slight curve, I layed a THIN wall 1" square tubing section flat on my steel workbench then hit the top side with a small ballpeen hammer (round end) all along the area I needed curved. The indentation caused by the ballpeen draws it together at the point of impact causing it to curve slightly. It does work but takes a little practice. Another way I did it was to cut 2/3rds through the tubing with a sawzall about every 3/4ths inch, collapsing the tubing closing up the gaps left from the cuts makes a curve, then tack weld them back shut. An oxegen/acetelene torch too. Like I've said before, my tactics are primitive at best, but I used what tools and little expertise I had. These other guys on here with many more years of experiance no doubt would have better ways than me. Good luck!
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Wear your seatbelt