What's the trick paint for chassis' now? I'm just about ready to squirt the 34 chassis I'm working on and I'm not sure what to use. I read a bit about Por15 - Can this stuff be sprayed? Something better?
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I know the pix supposed to be of me, but I didn't wanna scare anyone!

POR15 is Awesome.. The hardest paint you can find for your car ...no prep needed also can be sprayed on.

Check them out @http://www.por15.com/
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"Big Al" Liebmann
"right tidy,lefty loosey"

Charter Member: Dipstick Street Rod Association
Technical Advisor Barris/Kind Chyrsler City Coupe Kustom

Is POR-15 available in colors??

bjb
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There's a world of difference between "good" and "good enough".

POR-15 BLACK
POR-15 SEMI-GLOSS BLACK
POR-15 GRAY
POR-15 SILVER
POR-15 CLEAR

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"Big Al" Liebmann
"right tidy,lefty loosey"

Charter Member: Dipstick Street Rod Association
Technical Advisor Barris/Kind Chyrsler City Coupe Kustom

Just a word of caution!!! DONT SPRAY THIS SH#T with out a fresh air system .It is deadly,after it gets in your lungs it never comes out NEVER!!!! Even with a brush try and get a lot of air and dont paint near a heater as the fumes burned are even worse. Not something to screw with.Becareful.100 years after you die there will be a hardened mess of crap were your lungs were.If you want to try something a little less toxic try zero rust. I use the por 15 on plow truck parts and it is awesome. This is no joke,it can and will kill you.Even a respirator wont keep you safe.I dont sell either so its not a money thing for me.We have been using dp90 on frames but you have to goi the full prep route.
Mike....
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Drive like you stole it !!

Thanx guys - I found the Matrix stuff here in Windsor Ontario and it's only $28.00 Canadian - pretty good deal. I mentioned all the options to the woman that owns the car and she says go with the chassis black. Also thanx for the caution - I hate spraying anything anymore. It's pretty scary when you start hearing about painters I've known for years dieing of all kinds of cancers - lost a buddy that way a couple of years ago.
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I know the pix supposed to be of me, but I didn't wanna scare anyone!

I see their chassis black is acrylic enamel and if you add a hardener it will be a lot tuffer and more resistant to chemicals, brake fluids, solvents and stuff like that. The only problem is, if you do add a hardener, you will still need a fresh air breathing system to protect you from isocyanates. That's not only while you're spraying it but while it is curing. Don't hang out in the area you painted in for at least 12 hours or so. Isocyanates aren't anything to mess with. They are odorless and can make you real sick and whatever damage done to your lungs is irreversible. A lot of times you don't even realize you're doing damage but you are.

Sometimes its worth it to take your frame to someone who is equipped to spray 2 part paints. I used to paint Clark Forklifts with Imron and have had some bad experiences with isocyanates and will not EVER paint without my fresh air system again. I'm only 53 but my lungs are probably 80. Two guys I painted with are dead now...one died in his 30's and the other died at 47...both from lung disease. Sorry for the long post, but it IS important...I don't care what anybody else says.
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George
DSRA member

Whatever POR15 touches, it is there forever unless you grind it off. You can use their thinner to remove the stuff while it is still wet, but once it has dried, that's it. I always use a brush or a small roller--it is self-leveling so there is no real need to spray it.
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Lynn
'32 3W

I'm curious to know if anyone has ever tried to sand blast a frame that had been painted with POR15. Does it blast off the same as paint or is it hard to get off? As tough as it is, it would seem that it might be hard to get off if you had to.

I painted a frame on a '37 Ford that was solid but had some pits in it with POR15 a few years ago. When it was done the pits showed but since it wasn't a show car and the frame is mostly hidden, I didn't worry about it. I sold the car to a guy that was going to go thru it again and make it into a show quality car and I've often wondered if he cursed me for putting POR15 on it.
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George
DSRA member

It sandblasts about the same as other paint, easier than Imron in fact. FWIW, super glue remover will take it off your hands and so forth.
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Anyone can restore an old car, it takes a man to cut one up.

DON'T GET POR 15 ON YOUR HANDS! YOU'LL WEAR IT FOR A WEEK OR LONGER IF YOU DO. ALSO DON'T GET ANY OVERSPRAY ON YOUR WIFES GLASSES!! :) I HAVE USED IT FOR SEVERAL THINGS AT WORK AND HOME, PREPED WITH A SCREW DRIVER AND WIRE BRUSH WORKED FOR A COUPLE YEARS, THEN FAILED, YES IT WAS TOP COATED WITH UV STABLE STUFF. USED IT ON A HITCH THAT I SANDBLASTED AND CLEANED IT WITH THEIR METAL READY. TOP COATED IT WITH THEIR TOPCOAT, STILL FAILED. DID A WHOLE SNOWMOBILE TRAILER WITH IT. WIRE WHEELED IT CLEANED IT WITH METAL READY, PORed IT AND TOP COATED IT WITH THEIR UV TOPCOAT. STUCK TO MOST OF THE RUSTY AREAS BUT FELL OFF THE PAINTED STUFF STARTING THAT YEAR. I USED TO REALLY LIKE IT, BUT NOW??? ONE THING I DO LIKE, I PATCHED A RUSTED OUT HOLE IN A WORK TRUCK CABINET WITH POR 15 AND FIBER GLASS MATT. TOOK ALONG TIME TO DRY AND WAS HARD TO WORK WITH BUT IT SEEMED TO HOLD UP NICE.
JOEL

Mike, POR15 is good...real tuff. I wouldn't say it doesn't need prep tho. It works good over rust but you have to have the flakey stuff off and clean the grease and oil off if you want it to stick and work the way its supposed to. Some types of it will dull if its exposed to sunlight but it stays tuff. I just did a rear end with it and it looks real good. First I took a putty knife and kerosene to it then I wire wheeled it to get all the loose stuff off. Then I washed it down good with lacquer thinner in a spraygun. I just brushed the POR15 on and it flows out just like its sprayed, you can spray it tho. Do two or three thin coats instead of heavy coats and remember it flows a lot and it takes 3-5 hours to dry between coats.

Just for the heck of it to clean the paint out of the brush, I painted the rusty old legs of a sheet metal brake I've got with it. I didn't even wipe the cobwebs off it....its an experiment in painting something with surface rust and no prep. It looks good.
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George
DSRA member

This frame's been sandblasted clean, and it's in great shape. If the Por15's mainly to control rust, I probably don't need it, but if it's that tuff it would probably prevent stone chips and stuff, I guess.
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I know the pix supposed to be of me, but I didn't wanna scare anyone!

I like using POR15 but recall it will deteriorate if exposed to ultra-violet light. If the sun can beat on it then it is best to top coat the stuff.

If the POR15 unused paint gets a year or two old, it will start to thicken. I use a little bit of turpentine as a paint thinner.

If the frame is rust free, use a good etching primer and Matrix chassis black. Under $20 a gallon!
They only sell to shops, so you may have to get someone to order it for you.
PS, they give free one quart samples to first time buyers!http://www.matrixsystem.com/

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Charlie

Mike, I agree with both George and Nitro. it's great stuff. But I will caution you on one thing though. If you have any threaded holes or blind nuts welded to the frame, make sure you manage to cover them before you spray or brush or you'll be taking taps to clean them out. We did John's 55 Chev frame and every threaded hole he had, had to be tapped out to start a bolt. The stuff is that hard. I also read that if you use their clear over any of their colours it will prevent the dulling from the sun.
Rochie