Any tips on how to keep a tranny pan from oozing fluid out?
I have new sealed it, and carefully torqued bolts in right sequence,etc. but still get drips.
A guy at work said he uses a very thin coat of grease on the rubber/cork gasket ,both sides,prior to installing it.
I havent tried RTV sealant or anything. Thanks!

I use a product called 3M weatherstrip adhesive, its basically a contact cement but it keeps the gasket from moving around on installation. Other than that, I would make sure, if it's a stamped steel pan, that the rails are straight and not warped from a previous over torquing.
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Be different but be yourself.

Make sure that the lip is not bent up, over torque can be a problem. Use a good quality gasket and you do not need sealant. If the leak is persistant check pan for cracks or other damage. Also you may find that it is the shift linkage shaft is leaking and running down to the pan. I have seen this happen before. Good luck. Ken.
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"Don't let fear and common sense hold you back"
Ken
www.loboys.com

A cast aluminum pan will cure your leaks.
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The "New" and Unimproved edcroozer... Charter D.S.R.A. member

When I used to rebuild automatics, I always used vaseline on the gaskets and seals.
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phil


It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.

On some pans the way to keep them from leaking is to make an all-cork gasket yourself, out of the thicker stuff you can buy by the sheet. If there is any irregularity in the pan the cork will conform to it much better than other gasket materials.
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Don`t over tighten the bolts, this will cause it to leak too.

If it's a chrome steel pan it maybe wise to scuff the chrome up on the seal surface to get a seal . An aluninum pan would also be a better bet .

I know someone will take me to task on this but I use RTV for sealing and have never had any leaks. I use just enough to make about a 1/8 inch wide bead to keep any excess from ozzing into the pan. I also let it set up till it just rebounds when pushed with yur finger. I also check the pan on a flat surface which in this case is a 1 inch thick piece of lexan which we used to be able to buy locally as "drops" at a plastics plant but they moved way outta town and I'm about outta scraps now! LOL I originally bought the piece (by the lb) for a good flat surface for sanding on. If the pan shows any light leaks or rocks on the flat surface, you might ne able to flatten it with a practiced(!) hammer...I usually install a drain plug when removing the pan for the first time and It really saves on messes when the engine hasn't run in awhile and the pan is full over the rails. Like Ed sez, an aluminum finned pan is a good idea and it helps dissapate heat a bit too. Never noticed if they have drain plugs tho. FredP
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Fred P.

They have magnetic plugs Fred. At least the ones from TCI.
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The "New" and Unimproved edcroozer... Charter D.S.R.A. member

Ed, does TCI have an on-line catalog? Tried www.tci.com but got (Geez) AT&T..... FredP
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Fred P.