Ok I want to build some custom fiberglass one-off stuff (consoles and stuff) I have seen people that carve the stuff out of some dense foam type stuff and then lay the glass over that. One done the just remove the foam from the inside (either chemically or manually) and the part is left behind. What are they using for the foam. I have tried the stuff from the flower shops and was looking for something a little better. I seems to be to course to form very well.

Thanks
Toad32

Probably closed cell foam then before the glass goes down you coat it with Vaseline so the fiberglass will come away from the foam once it's set.

Another option would be wood if it's just a simple design, alot of detail would take forever and a day.
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!

Try a MSC or McMaster Carr catalog. They both sell raw materials, I bet a closed cell Neprene, or EPDM would work. Also, you can use an electic knife to carve it. Coating with a release agent is smart, like Grant mentioned, vasoline, or some other substance.
--
Director Of Entertainment/ Recreation
Dipstick Street Rod Association
Lower Susquehanna Chapter

You could use any kind of construction foam as long as you glue aluminum foil to it with 3M spray glue and wax the aluminum foil prior to putting on the resin and matte material. I have done it this way and it worked. Don't use the white styrofoam. Use the denser stuff and carve it using a grinder with a coarse disk. I have also covered cardboard with (what else?) duct tape. Fiberglass does not want to stick to the slick duct tape surface.
--
Lynn
'32 3W

"Don't you think it's funny that all these tough-guy boxers are fighting over a purse?"
--George Carlin

I'm pretty sure you can use regular urethane closed cell foam....like the blue or pink board used in construction. The key thing, as I remember it, is to use epoxy resin instead of polyester resin. I don't think the epoxy resin eats the foam up like the polyester does. You might might want to experiment first tho.
--
*******
George

I've used the pink foam and the resin didn't eat it up. I'm building a roof for the rodmonster and I'm useing the white styrofoam stuff. Just cover it with saranwrap before you lay down the wet cloth and resin. It won't stick to the saranwrap. Dave
--
Life's too short to drive an ughly car!
Massachusetts Safety Inspecter for KKOA
www.geocities.com/stupidbaker57/custom_green

These guys started out making surf board blanks.
http://www.clarkfoam.net/
It's what you need, or the kind you need for the best results.
Or you can use the Ed Roth way and mix vermiculite with plaster. Trowel it on, shape it trowel more, then glass it and knock the plaster out after.
Be careful with the vermiculite though, I heard some of it has asbestos in it.
Better yet, just don't do ANYTHING in the garage without a dust mask on... :(

O.K., some of this info is not the very best.

1. Vaseline or any other petroleum-type product will inhibit the resin-catalyst reaction and leave a messy, sticky surface.

2. Saran Wrap over white styrofoam sounds good until you see your carefully shaped surface drooping before your eyes. I used this a couple of times until it failed and left me with a big mess. (The styrene solvent in the resin works its way through and destoys the styrofoam.) Bondo over styrofoam - ditto.

3. Aluminum foil and spray adhesive works - resin will not stick to aluminum. It may be easier to use 2" aluminum tape (it's sold in building supply stores for sheet metal ducts, no, not duct tape, solid aluminum foil on tape.) Just be sure you start at the bottom like putting shingles on a roof so the resin doesn't run into the seams.

4. Corrugated cardboard stuck together with a hot-melt glue gun is probably the quickest way to get the rough shape of the object. Don't worry about the corners - use spray foam in a can to round everything off. It's at the home center as spray polyurethane foam insulation, and look for the densest (most dense) stuff. Beware! It's got poison gas inside it - use outdoors and plan plenty of down time for it to gas off after you spray it all over the cardboard base. Polyester resin won't attack polyurethane foam. Several hours later you can shape the foam with a curved Surform file (home center - tools aisle) to exactly the contours you want. Then use poly resin and two layers of fiberglass cloth (auto supply store) to cover all surfaces and finish off the console or whatever you're building. Don't worry about it being sticky on the surface - cover it later with a thin layer of Bondo and then sand the Bondo down to the final shape. First remove it from the car and tear out all the cardboard and foam you can remove. Use epoxy primer, sand and paint the console and you're done.

5. Epoxy resin or putty does not attack styrofoam, BUT, it's more expensive, a little more finicky to work with, harder to sand unless you use additives, and somewhat more toxic. Did I mention all this stuff is toxic? Don't take that lightly. Find out how to protect yourself (or kiss your nerves, sense of smell/taste, etc. goodbye.)

6. Go to Fibreglast.com for lots of helpful info. Also, www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/August_2000/Fiberglass_I.php
Also, here's a guy who built his own console: http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=32&t=000571
Also, Hot Rod magazine had an article about fiberglass:
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/60478/index.html

HI there is a foam(CAN'T REMEMBER THE NAME)that resiset the resin...surf boards are made with it...the foam that comes in a can for sealing cracks in wall (I thinks it a urathain fomr....home improvment stors have it...)you can carve it also.
also I have made a patteren using chicken wire and cover it with paper cache...this works well and is cheep

Bobby
--
Keep the shinie side up

I HAVE WORKED WITH STYROFOAM BUILDING MODEL AIR CRAFT. FROM THE DESIGN STAND POINT THE SKY IS THE LIMIT. ANY SHAPE IS POSSIBLE. USE THE EPOXY RESIN AS IT WILL NO DESOLVE THE FOAM. ONCE YOU HAVE THE STYROFOAM TO THE SHAPE YOU WANT COAT IT WITH GLASS CLOTH AND RESIN (WELL VENTED SPACE WITH SOME AIR FLOW). WHEN CURED, DESOLVE THE FOAM WITH.....GASOLINE, ACETONE ANY STRONG SOLVENT AND SPILL OUT THE DESOLVED FOAM AND SOLVENT..........MADE SOME MOTOR CYCLE TANKS WITH THIS METHOD AND THEY CAME OUT VERY NICE. MOST ANY SHAPE IS POSSIBLE BUT THERE IS NO MOLD LEFT OVER AS IT GETS DESOLVED IN THE PROCESS.....TRY IT...
--
RICH

If you use styro foam, after you have sanded it to shape, paint on a coat of cheap latex paint on the foam let it dry and put your resin on. The latex will stop the resin from melting the foam. Expoxy resin is the best over foam.
Tom

Depending on the shape of the object you want to make, you can cover the "buck" with wax paper. Resin and fiberglas won't stick to it.
--
WPoC, Friend of edcroozer, Politically incorrect,DSRA member, and Speed freak. If it ain't glass it'll rust !!

http://hometown.aol.com/plymouthpartsman/page1.html

got it all wrong..... this is how we do it down herre in Florida.... go to home depot... get some GREAT STUFF(lots of foam in a can) and spray about 6 cans on the ground outside.... not in the road... wait a couple hours until there is a pile of foam about 30 feet tall and go cut you some shapes :-) thr rest is fun to blast away with a pressure washer.... or if you have a 4X4..... let at it!
--
EL CAMINO!

Some one is in the meds a little too much...lol
--
WPoC

WAY too much!
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!

too much.... not im my vocabulary... will you explain?
--
EL CAMINO!

too: too is an adverb meaning 'more at' or 'to an excessive degree', and 'to such a degree as to be regrettable.

much: much used in coordination with 'too' is a noun, 'much' means to a great degree or extent, by or for a long time.
Put the two together and you get TOO MUCH or if continued at a great degree or extent it will be at a degree that will be regrettable.