What type of suspension would you guys recommend for front I dont want to spend too much but then again I dont want something that will fall apart?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by edcroozer
Posted: 04/29/2003 19:05 EST
Read back on your previous posts, I believe we went over this. M-2.
--
WPoC
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by MYRIDE
Posted: 04/30/2003 13:38 EST
Loeff,
Take heed of what couper is saying. The first step is always the toughest. If you decide on a MII frontend let me know. There is a guy here in Edmonton that puts the crossmembers,caps etc. together for a reasonable 300.00 canadian. Supplies it with very easy to follow disections and his number for trouble shooting. He's a welding instructor and has sold many many of these kits all over U.S included. I'm positive he has the template for your frame.
References available.
Just another option.
--
"At least once in your life...Own a car that will make your butt put a death grip on your seats upholstery"
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by little marine
Posted: 04/30/2003 17:00 EST
hey rick didn`t know if you knew it but when you click on this web site and then go to the home page it praises the iraqi people and puts down america/americans...whats up with that???..
--
you only live once......
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by couper
Posted: 04/30/2003 19:26 EST
You're right Pat. I couldn't believe my eyes. This guy's another camel jockey who's probably hiding here in the US behind his computer, proclaiming the usual 'death to american infidels' rant. What puzzles me is, how does the old car theme play into it?
Does anybody else see an angle to this?
--
Wear your seatbelt.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 58 Yeoman
Posted: 04/30/2003 20:42 EST
All I see are a lot of pix of neat old cars. Hmmm...figure that one out.
--
phil
It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by edcroozer
Posted: 04/30/2003 20:46 EST
Go to gallery for the insults.
--
WPoC
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/01/2003 17:54 EST
How much does it run for a M II front suspension kit from him?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 46DRIVER
Posted: 05/01/2003 18:10 EST
Hi Lo, may I ask you a question? Do you purchase street rod magazines? I know that we are all here to help each other out but most of us know that prices are printed along with the ads in every major street rodding magazine there is.
Again, we don't mind helping out but some research on your part would be nice. Are you going to build this car yourself? Or are we all invited over to build it for you?
Come on guy, get on the stick and show us what you can come up with.
--
Loeff, 300.00 canadian plus shipping. 300 CND works out to 'bout 180.00 US depending on the exchange. Shipping will vary depending on distance and if it goes ground/air etc. I went this route, then picked up stock upper and lower A arms etc. complete MII under my '38 including power rack for less than 600.00 CND ( aprox 375.00 US)
--
"At least once in your life...Own a car that will make your butt put a death grip on your seats upholstery"
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 58 Yeoman
Posted: 05/01/2003 19:00 EST
Thanks ed...I see what you're talking about.
--
phil
It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.
That is a GREAT site!
--
This space intentionally left blank.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by Dooce
Posted: 05/02/2003 13:32 EST
Uh ... all except the "I hate the U.S." part. Puts a rotten taste in your mouth about all the rest of it.
--
This space intentionally left blank.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/06/2003 19:20 EST
I took the body off and got rid of most of the old wood and am going to have a metal shop here in minnesota make new trunk floor and metal floor.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/06/2003 19:21 EST
I have heard that you use steel tubing on some parts where the wood supports go just wondering what you guys think or if that was a bad idea?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by Slammin
Posted: 05/06/2003 20:14 EST
Steel reinforcement is the ticket here...takes place of the old wood. Go for it.
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/07/2003 19:25 EST
Have you done anything like this and if so how did it turn out and does it look as good as the wood?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by Slammin
Posted: 05/07/2003 19:51 EST
Every last street rod I've touched, I ditched the wood and reinforced the body with steel. I think everyone with a street rod has redid the inner structure with steel as the wood for the most part gone in most pre '48s. Turned out fairly well...as long as it serves it's purpose and holds your shell together ya dont need to worry about it being pretty. As long as it's functional, and serves it's purpose. It's going to be covered over by your upholstery, right?
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/08/2003 13:45 EST
Well we were thinking of redoing most of the wood but would it be better to just make a floor and just put upolstry there or is it worth making the wood for the floor? could you please send me a picture of what the metal tubing looks like. Thank You Shane
my email is shaneloeffler@hotmail.com
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by Slammin
Posted: 05/08/2003 15:21 EST
For right now, in the early construction, all I'd be concerned with is getting all the tube bracing all through the body structure (from the floor clear up into the headliner, where the wood once was so nothing collapses on you if you were to put it over on it's lid in an accident.) and steel floor down. When it comes time to mock up the interior, I'd lay wood down over the steel, then cover that over with insulation to keep heat out. And while your at it, it wouldn't hurt to insulate the rest of the inner structure. Cruising around in a noisy and hot street rod aint too fun on the ol' human body. No pics of any bracing, sorry....If you check out any of the major rod shops websites, you'll see how it's all done and get some ideas in the process....Main thing is to have fun with it!
Best of luck...
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 46DRIVER
Posted: 05/08/2003 16:36 EST
1" x 1" mild steel is fine to use for bracing and floor.
--
How do you do floors did you just replace the old wood or did you make a sheet metal one with braces or what?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/14/2003 16:40 EST
We have the frame pulled and have most of the moldings out and pretty much all of the old wood.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/22/2003 18:51 EST
What is the best way to clean the frame when there is rust all over but no rust holes? How about the body?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by Slammin
Posted: 05/22/2003 19:15 EST
Sand or Plastic Media blast...it'll knock out the rust and take it to bare metal so you can start the necessary bodywork. I'd get that steel framing in where the wood once was inside before I gave it a beating with a blaster..and even then, be careful!
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/23/2003 00:22 EST
I didn't see any wood on the frame? I know there was some on where the body connected to the frame but that was it that I can remember
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/25/2003 01:54 EST
I t hink the top on a 34 master is pretty low so I was wondering if it is worth chopping or what do you guys thinkg??
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by Slammin
Posted: 05/25/2003 09:20 EST
All depends on how comfortable you want to be. If you like cruising all stretched out dont, if you like the whole knee biting, knees between your shoulders feel go for it. You could give it a mild chop and still keep SOME room to move, just dont go dropping it too much.
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/25/2003 13:59 EST
Well i'm a 17 year old so I dont think I would be too crammed in there. But I mean what do you guys like as in for looking at them would you rather look at a car that is chopped a few inches 4 inches or none?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 58 Yeoman
Posted: 05/25/2003 14:02 EST
I like to see them in proportion. Some tops are chopped too low, some stock tops just look too high.
--
phil
It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/25/2003 21:29 EST
Well I think it is plenty low here is a picture of what I would like it too look like and I don't think this one has a chop.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/25/2003 21:32 EST
How do you post a picture that you have?
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by Slammin
Posted: 05/26/2003 09:13 EST
Ya gotta post it to a Photo Hosting site then link it here in the "Image URL" box below.
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/26/2003 19:50 EST
Here is the pic? I think.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 58 Yeoman
Posted: 05/26/2003 20:55 EST
I'm not sure if villagephotos will post here, but here goes.
--
phil
It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 58 Yeoman
Posted: 05/26/2003 20:59 EST
Ok, so it works. Shane, when you go to your website, right click on the pic you want, then copy the URL address, and paste it in the image url at the bottom of this post.
--
phil
It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by 58 Yeoman
Posted: 05/26/2003 21:00 EST
Looks like you can post the small pic, but not the large.
--
phil
It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.
This is an archived message
RE: 1934 master coupe
by loeff
Posted: 05/26/2003 21:20 EST
Thank you. I have another question about putting tubing on the inside of the car do you guys put tubing around the windows? If so do you just bend it to make it fit or is there something im missing here? Thanks
Shane, let me tell you something my friend.... it's time to start working on your coupe and stop talking about it. Have confidence in your abilities and 'go for it'. You know what to do, you're just afraid to pull the trigger.
Don't use an S-10 frame, don't use a front clip from a Camaro, Nova, or anything else on this coupe of yours. You can buy an aftermarket MII cheap these days. Don't screw it up trying to take the easy route. There isn't one. Especially if your're building your first ride. I Know.
Box and X-member the old frame, if you don't have the means to do it yourself, go to a reputable rod shop, or buy a new frame made for the coupe from the companies mentioned on previous posts.
Heed the advice from all these guys who gave it.
When I first started on mine, I was hesitant to start ANYTHING, because I was afraid to f*** it up, and I did screw a few things up...so will you, but sooner or later YOU will have to light the torch and turn on the welder, etc. Not blindly, not just for the sake of doing something, but slowly, thoughtfully, carefully.....
OK, OK, Well, that a good pep talk I should heed myself. Time to get off my a.. and head to the shop.lol
--
Wear your seatbelt.
Dont be affraid to jump right into it. Once ya get your parts ready, jump in head first....in no time you'll be over the hump and cruisin'.
--
Lower Susquehanna Chapter Member of DSRA - DSRA Mid Atlantic Division P.R Associate for Lugnuts 2003 World Tour..Coming to a City near you!