Just wondering what everyone is using to paint thier engine blocks/pumps/parts??Have tried the hi-temp stuff from the auto parts stores with very little success,seems to "chalk" on the really hi-temp areas.Perhaps I am not prepping it correctly?? Thanks!!
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Daryle "It's what we learn after we think we know it all that really counts!"

I have used the Hi-Temp spray can stuff with pretty good results. On exhasut manifolds, I will sandblast them and then paint several coats. Place them in the oven at 450-500 degress for several hours (really stinks up the kitchen good). I think getting a good clean dry surface is key.
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baker53

Engine parts ALL painted with basecoat/clearcoat. Headers and exhaust coated with JetHot.
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Some days you get the elevator,
Some days you get the shaft......

Slick has a good idea, but I have had great luck with the POR 15 engine enamels. They are very high in solids and are urathane based I believe. I have several engines that have thousands of miles on them and the paint looks new.
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Steve Jack
Marketing Technologies Limited,LLC
ConceptOne Brackets and Pulleys

The engine in my'29, which was an open engine car, was painted with single stage urethane and it held up extremely well, even around the headers. The new car's engine block I painted with sign painter's enamel. Like the POR15 paints, they have a very high pigment content. But since the car has not been run yet, I can't comment on how durable it is but I figured it would be easy to touch up.
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Lynn
'32 3W

I've been wondering, "Whatever happened to the subjects that tested Preparations A through G?"

How does the POR-15 look brushed on as I don't want to put it in my sprayer?
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Daryle "It's what we learn after we think we know it all that really counts!"

Almost forgot...What is required to prep the surface...need primer?Have not used it before.
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Daryle "It's what we learn after we think we know it all that really counts!"

Check it out here: http://www.por15.com/
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Bob the Builder-We can fix it !!

the por 15 is self leveling paint. In some areas depending on the condition of the metel it my take two coats. I painted my block. Just wire brushed the bad areas that i wasn't satisfied with when it came out of the tank. Spray paint and what ever primer I had around I just gave it a dusting. Brushed on and it came out great. Really sparkles. Use the cheap rubber disposable gloves and the throw away brush and you are in there. Good Luck

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I'll drive it anywhere anytime.

Any paint is only as good as what is under it. POR15 as I understand it is supposed to go directly onto bare metal so I think you would be defeating its purpose by putting any primer under it.--.02
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Digger
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DSRA Member

I threw it away yesterday, now I have to go buy one
Just when you think you have won the Rat Race along come faster rats

I agree, the por 15 is great! We painted the block of a 396 with it and it turned out nice!

Thanks Guys! This is a GM Crate motor and I just want to touch up the ends of the heads etc that they don't paint...I'll give the POR-15 a try.Anyone had any luck clear coating a raw Aluminum intake?Powder Coat?
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Daryle "It's what we learn after we think we know it all that really counts!"

Daryle--I have clearcoated (Imron) and had intakes powder coated and they look about the same either way. They wind up looking kind of like silver paint and not aluminum.
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Digger
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DSRA Member

I threw it away yesterday, now I have to go buy one
Just when you think you have won the Rat Race along come faster rats

I have clear powder coated intakes for years. If they are new, just clean with thinner and let it rip. Nice bright gun metal look...... If they are old, media blast, clean and coat and it will turn out a darker gun metal gray. Impervious to just about anything but if you have a egr or carb heat crossover that is functional it will eventually yellow a smiggin. However if not functional nothing will bother it except racing fuel (the zylene combined with dyes will affect it...but no problem with pump gases). Easy to clean as well.

I have several that have been on for 5 or 6 years and still look great!
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Steve Jack
Marketing Technologies Limited,LLC
ConceptOne Brackets and Pulleys

Daryle,

Used the basecoat/clearcoat system and it held up well. Did it in yellow and didn't have any burn marks show up on the painted heads. Also did a single stage on the 1st motor and it worked well also. Single stage is easier to touch up if need be.

Bob
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Bob the Builder-We can fix it !!

i used single stage car paint with a hardener. i don't have very many running hours on it, but so far it has stayed looking very nice. a friend had told me to use car paint, he has done that and worked real well for him.
rickd :-)
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project...39 ford pickup

i used single stage PPGs Concept Line with a light coat of epoxy primer under it and it came off in sheets,i heard of many not having problems though now i just use plastic coat engine enamel now,,,jim
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http://community.webshots.com/user/jimcaf12

we had this discussion a few weeks ago in the shop. I painted the block on my engine with the same paint that we painted the car with. Another guy wants to paint his engine, but would only use engine enamel. What is the difference between "engine paints" and good quailty spray paints? My argument is that I've never heard of a heat resistant additive to make regular paints heat resistant. Time will tell, both engines are being installed in the next few weeks.

I used 1 stage Concept over DP primer on my SBC, after 10'000 miles it starting to flake around the edges. A friend used POR and did'nt put the top sealer or something on and he told me it stained easy. he thinks it was his mistake. A body shop told me good engine paint has a built in etching primer, and doesn't need primed. they use it for detail touch up [black etc.]
Dave
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dave

i have used enamel with just a touch of thiner and spray it on with a gun,if the motorclean it will look great all most like plastic.......Johnny
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A GOODGUYS REP