I have a 35 Chevy 3 WIndow Coupe. Anyone know of any pictures or diagrams that show how the car bolts together? I have the body, frame, doors, trunk lid, hood, fenders but no rockers, running boards or rear fenders. I'm not sure what the rockers/running boards looked like or how they bolted to the body and frame. A also don't know if there are any other body parts that I am missing....maybe tail pan, wheel wells???

This is the first street rod that I have worked on so I'm a little clueless!


I made a cheesy website to hold some pics:

http://www.stratagaz.com/35Chevy/1935ChevyStandard3WindowCoupe.htm

Hey Paul,
I can't help you on your questions, but I do like your "cheesy website." It's easy to maneuver and is fast. I should be so lucky with mine.

Looks like you've got a lot of work ahead of you on your project. Should buy the red one and paint it your own color. LOL.
Good luck.
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phil


It's not a NOMAD, it's a Yeoman!
Not an engineer, but I DO drive a train.

Hi Paul, Welcome aboard, You came to the right place to get the 35 back on the road. So pull up a chair and make yourself at home.

Remember the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.

Your 35 will be a good project. Frist of all you'll have to find out what look you your after. Lance (couper)has a real nice 34 chevy 3w coupe in the studio. You might get some idea's off od his.

There's going to be parts you'll need for the body. like front fender brackets and running board brackets.

After everybody get home from work alot of car nuts will help you out. and tell you what all you need or what you don't need. We'll try and make this as painless as posible

Rick
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awsum34

Nothing better than a good friends,good beer and street rods

Thanks!!

Here are some of my thoughts on the car....

The body was channeled when I got it. I don't know that I want it channeled or chopped as I want to be able to comfortably sit in it. Will it sit too high if it's not channeled? I am not super tall(6'1"), but I want to be able to easily get in and out and drive it.

I will probably begin by setting it up not channeled or chopped. I have to build the interior framing for the body so that it mounts on top of the frame. Once I get it setup so that the body framing is in place and the mounting points on top of the frame I'll see how much room I have. If I feel that I can chop it at that point maybe I will.

I'm not sure whether I should stay with the rear leafs or put in a 4 link. I have no clue as to the Pros and Cons of either. I have a 383/2004R ready to go in the car so once I get the body setup I can put the engine/trans in to mock up the mounts. There is a 1968 camaro 10 bolt(8.2) rear in it. I'll probably change that to a later 8.5 10 bolt.

I have also heard that the mustang II frontend may not allow the fenders to be mounted correctly? I've heard that the wheels may not clear or be centered in the wheel openings?

So originally did the body bolt to the top of the frame? The rockers must have bolted somehow under the doors to the body and to the side or top of the frame? The running boards must have also bolted to the side of the frame? The front fenders probably bolted to the top of the frame as well?

When you say rockers do you mean the panel that run along the side of the running boards, between the running boards and body? If so The running boards and rockers are one piece. The front fenders bolt to the top of the frame. I also think you'll need front inner fenders on a 35. I know on a 34 you do.

Looking at the frame in the pictures. all i can say is WOW what a mess. It sounds like you've done some of your home work on where to get started.

Rick
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awsum34

Nothing better than a good friends,good beer and street rods

Really?!?!? So if I buy the aftermarket steel running boards the "rockers"(to connect the body together under the doors) is already there?!?! Cool!!!

Inner fenders huh?!? I only have the outer fenders. Thanks for the great info!!! Any other body parts that you can think of that I need, let me know since I am clueless as to what it originally came with!

"What a mess", yes those weren't the exact words that I used to descibe it, but it definitely is an ugly mess! I will be cutting/grinding/welding for a while to get the frame cleaned up!!

Well the best thing to do is to go to ebay and buy a Fisher Body manuel(20.00) it well be a wise investment!It shows how everything goes together! Next put 1935 chevrolet in the search engine (Ebay) and watch for parts you need also use(1935 chevy) in the search engine there will some more items in it! Also you need to know if it is a standard or master it will make a differents on parts! You are lucky 35's have alot of repo parts available and if you are going to redo the wood or replace with metal if wood i can give you a guys address and phone number to get the wood. It's not cheap you can do it yourself but it's tough I just got done doing my 36 and I wouldn't do it again!
GOOD lUCK!
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Mike,Charter DRSA Member

It is a standard coupe. That much I do know! I'll look for the fisher body manual. I ordered an assembly manual on CD, but it didn't have what I was looking for.

Hi Paul and welcome to the board!! If ya need some info on your project get ahold of MikeJ. He is a good friend and owns a 35 Chevy coupe and he has some books that might be of help. Look in the studio under coupes and scroll down till you find a green coupe with graphics on the side with the name of Mikej or Mike Johnson clock on the pic and then on Mikej to get his profile for his email address and I know he will help you. Or he may post here in a bit, as he checks in here often. Bill
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Bill Hicks DSRA Member

I think Lance is going to have alot more valuable info on this. His car is very similar and I believe he replaced the wood with metal. I have books on makes and models but not the fisher body manuels. The 35 master I have will be quite abit different. I would also suggest parts catalogs from Yogi's and Speedway. I'm sure the rest of the guys can make more suggestion on the info you will need.
Also check out couper's car in the studio. I don't believe it is chopped or chaneled and it does sit right.
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Mike J
Unchartered DSRA Member
If it ain't broke, fix it anyway...

Paul, Frist thing i would do is put the doors back on and make sure the doors open and shut real good, and aligned. Then tac weld a peice's of metal inside to keep the boody from twisting. That way your building the frame to the body. Thats where alot of guys get into trouble. they'll get a frame, the the body and have trouble aligning the body to the frame.

Hope all this make since.
Rick
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awsum34

Nothing better than a good friends,good beer and street rods

OK....First thing I'll do is get the body tacked together. I may start to bend some tubing for the body support. I was looking at the frame last night and I think it all has to come apart. I'm going to get the frame rails off and make sure that they are straight and then box/grind them.

I have the frame on a jig/rotisserie. I need to find what the dimensions of the frame should be as this thing has been hacked on for decades. Anyone know where to find the correct width measurements?

try this thread. http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Roundtable/Archives/Year_2002/April/257.php
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Mike J
Unchartered DSRA Member
If it ain't broke, fix it anyway...

Instead of fixing my old frame what do you guys think of buying a new frame from someone like Progressive Automotive?

Paul, That would be the fastest way to get the ride on the road. Before you do. check around and do some homework on them. There's other companies out there.
That's what alot of guys do, But there are some that want to work with what they got.

You can buy a rolling chassis any way you want. If you do buy a chassis, Make sure you tell them it's for a metal body. And have them put it in writing. Chassis built for fiberglass bodies will have the crossmembers higher. because the fiberglass bodies are more flat on the floor board. While steel bodyies set lower in the frame.

Rick
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awsum34

Nothing better than a good friends,good beer and street rods

Nice find, Paul. If that cpe is the same one (S.C.), I had my eye on it myself. I bought a service manual for my 35' Pontiac 3 window cpe from Crank'EN'Hope Publications out of Blairsville, Pa. PH. 412-459-8853. Good service, good folks. You will like this manual, lots of exploited views, pix of wood pieces, hardware, ect., and the best part is it was $17.00 with shipping. I strongly recomend you check it out. Sure has and continues to help me. E-mail me, I had a 33' Chevy and would like to talk to you about yours. truckmaster@carolina.rr.com

blksheep......in Charlotte

Paul you might be able to get with Downs or Outlaw and they may be able to help you ,glad to have you aboard.......Johnny
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A GOODGUYS REP

The April 2003 Streetrodder Magazine has an article on 34-35 chevy frames. Pg 106. The Rodster Shop. Elgin, IL.
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Mike J
Unchartered DSRA Member
If it ain't broke, fix it anyway...

I like that early model tilt steering actuated by a floor jack. None of those cheesy 4 or 5 position settings. LOL
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If you want it yesterday, then call me tommorow and I will have it ready today.

That "early model tilt steering actuated by a floor jack" is a very rare option indeed!

The tilt wheel in my 69 camaro is a much more modern style. Here are some pictures of my daily driver after after I finished it:

Oops....forgot to add the link!

Ooops....I screwed that up too!

http://www.stratagaz.com/69LM1/1969LM1Convertible.htm

You've got a great start! And, lots of tools and goodies. All you need is imagination, little motivaton, and no fear. Go at it! :) Do your homework, looks like your gonna have one nice piece. Keep us updated!
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The grass on the other side of the fence is sometimes yellow, especially after parties.

Lower Susquehanna Valley Chapter of DSRA
Enis- The most famous Dipstick of all.......

And if ya need any pencil to paper action, body modifications, color options....anything to do with the design of it to get ya that ultimate tricked out street rod ya want......I'm your man! E-Mail me and I'll work up some magic.....No charge ofcourse
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D.S.R.A- Lower Susquehanna Chapter N.S.R.A Member
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EdCroozers new found Nephew, Delivery35's long lost son & MrWillys Younger brother from another mother..Amateur Rod & Custom Illustrator/Designer

Here is another site with frames:
http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/34CC.htm
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Mike J
Unchartered DSRA Member
If it ain't broke, fix it anyway...

Hi Paul.
I like your website, and your project. You'll be one proud guy when it's done.
I have many build-up pictures and experiences I went through on my '34 I will be glad to share with you if you'd like. I'm not an expert at this though, (proclaimed or otherwise), but here's just a couple thoughts I had:

If you haven't stripped the crossmembers and 'X' member out yet, you may want to wait a while. Don't do anything you don't have to do that you may regret later.

The 34 standard models did not have a glovebox opening and the gauges were centered in the dash. The master dash looks like your picture. What wheelbase is your coupe?

If you're confident the frame is straight and true, you may consider bolting the body back on, tack the doors shut with the proper gap, then crossbrace it before pulling it back off. If you're not sure on the frame, I can send you a diagram with the body bolt location measurements you can verify with.

If you have a 'Standard' frame with a 107 inch wheelbase, measure from the centerline of the Must II crossmember to the flush end of the frame horn, (not including the bumper mount). Is it 16.5 inches? If not, you might as well plan to start over with an aftermarket unit. Judging from the pictures, you may want to anyway. The geometry of the welded in unit needs to be correct too or it'll follow every crack in the road.

If you can find one, the 65/66 Mustang rooftop fits the centerfill if you turn it around 180 degrees. The slight curve near the rear of the Mustang top fits the slight curve at the front of the 34/35 like a glove.

There IS a rocker panel located between the running board and the body. I'm not sure if you'll find an aftermarket company that reproduces it. Most of the reproduction body panels only go back to '35 (Master) which are very different than the little Standards.

Paul, as time goes on, you may very well get a different answer for many of your questions you ask (here or elswhere), it'll just be up to your gut feel sometimes what direction you want to go.
Lance
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Wear your seatbelt.

Thanks for the info!!

I am working on the frame right now, so any measurements, mounting points, etc would be extremely helpful!!!

I will need to compile a list of all of the body panels. I know that I need running boards, rear fenders, rear tailpan?(I'm not sure what it's called. It mounts across the rear under the body).....I'm not sure what the "rockers" even look like to be able to fabricate them.

Paul,

I helped a friend with his 35 Master sedan and the one thing you need to remember is there are large amounts of wood in Chevy's to start with. Most of the sheet metal just nails over the wood. I know the panels under the doors are just a cover. The first decision is always do you want to put in a new wood kit or just build a steel structure for the body.

Doug
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The Land Yacht specialist

I think I am a member of DSRA

A complete wood kit costs 2k-3k. To build it out of steel costs next to nothing. I'm sure that I can build a cage out of rollbar tubing, but not sure that I'll get the body shaped correctly using the steel. I don't have a source to be able to see what wood went where. If I can find a good diagram showing the wood support I'm sure that I could fabricate it. Anyone know of a source?

I hear Crank'en Hope , 412-459-8853 sells a Fisher Body Manual for $12.00 stock #723604. Of this I have no personal knowledge. Skip
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Time,Tide and Rust wait for no man

If you don't go will steel you can give these guys a call. www.chevywood.com But i would go steel

Rick
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awsum34

Nothing better than a good friends,good beer and street rods

Does the fisher body manual have diagrams of the wood?

By the way....Crank'en Hope - 412-459-8853 must be out of business as the number is invalid.

The 36 chevy owners group has had some discussions on wood. 36 was last year for wood. Its my understanding that the Fisher Body Manul covers 35-36, and shows the wood. They can be found on E-Bay. Mike (Bowtie 36) on here may know more about this if we can rattle his cage.
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Time,Tide and Rust wait for no man

It has some but not all! And the wood kits are around 1000.00 for complete kits from a guy in Penn. I'll get the address to you later as I'm at work now! Or Chopped can go to the chevy owners group and find it! I was going to redo mine in metal but only had a few pieces to replace so I made them myself and had a guy make the piece for the back window but doing the wood is a pain in the a$$ I'd do metal if I had to do it again! And the oak wood is pricey I spent 70.00 on 4 pieces! I think I could of spent about 200.00 on tubing and do all of it that way!
Later
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Mike,Charter DRSA Member

Try, http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/1936ChevyOwners/ This is the main pg. click "files", down about 20 is Fisher body Book. The guy has posted pics. from it . Keep in mind I'm computor challenged!
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Time,Tide and Rust wait for no man

They wouldn't let me join the 36 chevy group since I don't have a 36 chevy! They did however send me what looks to be a catalog from "David J Entler Restorations" that has diagrams of what their wood kits look like and how they go together! I think that it is good enough to give me a basic idea.

Glad you found what you need! The wood isn't to much different from 35 to 36.
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Mike,Charter DRSA Member

$1000 for a complete kit?!?!?!?

I talked to Bill from KC Wood www.chevywood.com) and James Rodman I don't remember the company name and they both said $2000-$3000 for a complete kit! They must have seen me coming if the "going rate" is really only $1000!!!!

The 1.5 13 gauge rollbar tubing sells for about $15 for a 20 foot section. I think that it would cost less than $100 to do it with tubing......If only had some pics/diagrams of what wood originally came in the car. I have ZERO wood left in the body. The doors still have a little, but that's it!

Once you get the doors and trunk back on and align. and support the body with bracing. Making your supports with metal won't be that hard.

Rick
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awsum34

Nothing better than a good friends,good beer and street rods

I paid $1100 for my complete kit for my '32 Sedan, and that was in the early '80s. I'd never do it again. Steel all the way.

bjb
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There's a world of difference between "good" and "good enough".

Paul go to the site that chopped gave you and look at the photo's there's alot of pics and you can get a idea! You need to go around windows,door pillars and top! Also the body manuel will show alot too! If you can't find one I'll sell you mine just email me!
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Mike,Charter DRSA Member

GO with the steel. I used 1" square in my 33 coupe around the doors, windows and any place else that I thought needed it. A much more solid sound when you close the door and less body flex, squeeks and no screws or nails working there way back out through yer upolstery. A torch and a vice will do it if you take your time and make sure all your measurements are right, if not then just reheat and rebend. Weld it in place with a mig .Like it was mentioned before, Have the body on the frame and do all the inside bracing done before you turn the termites loose.
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If you want it yesterday, then call me tommorow and I will have it ready today.

You should have a number of pictures and diagrams in your email I sent.
A few more are forthcoming that pertain to the wood/steel framework.
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Wear your seatbelt.

Just helped a friend fill his roof in a 35 sedan. We used a Lincoln Town Car as the donner. It has all the correct radius and after trimming fit very well. I agree with "couper" - DON'T touch the body without it being bolted to the frame. It will never fit when you re-mount it. Take this from a voice of experience.

Do not discount using the original straight axle type suspension. You will want to use a dropped axle and disk brakes and some better springs. I have rode thousands of miles in my friend Larry's 35 coupe which included an over 3,000 run to Bonneville last year. Although it is not as good as a coil spring car, I think the simplicity and economy is a real plus.