OK, here's where I'm at:Do I drill mounting holes in the top's of my frame rails,insert those little rubber cusion mounting pads that squeeze out when you tighten them,also while fastening the floor down at the same time.THEN'glass the Outside of the wood floor to the inner wall of the T body,leaving enough room so the body does not touch the frame anywhere ?????? Am I close on this,cause I tell ya'I'm about stumped on this one..... P.S.... Forgive my ignorance,just my first homebuilt rod,want it to be right.
Thanx: Ole' Phatt TUK :)
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Where there'z a will.... There'z a RELATIVE !!

Hey Tom, ya might want to check out the
National T Bucket Alliance (NTBA) either for membership or just search their tech pages. You need not join just to get info from the fellow bucket head there either, just sign up to the board as you have here! N T B A works well for me and I got a "T" Touring!!!
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Member:Dipstick Street Rod Association.
My other car is a train, and last night I put the engine on the ground!!

I did a similar thing when I built a '29 Ford Lowboy roadster. I drilled through the frame rails for the bolts and then bonded the exterior plywood to the body. When everything had cured, I drilled up through the frame to make the holes in the plywood floor to attach the body. I then removed the body and inserted strips of webbing on top of the frame rails and then reattached the body. I would not use those rubber inserts you spoke about. I never had any problems in the eleven years I drove the car.
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Lynn
'32 3W

Therapy helps, but screaming obscenities is cheaper.

I took the liberty to "lift" your post ad post in over at NTBA sight and the following was ONE of the repys........

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Make and weld to your frame 4 body mounting tabs.
These should be welded to either the inside edge of the frame tubing level with the top surface.
Line the frame with body welting (a treated woven heavy belting) or strips of rubber matting. This should be present anywhere your body touchs the frame.
You should use 1/2" bolts Grade 5 or better with large diameter flatwashers and lockwashers or Nylock nuts to mount the body. Do not overtighten.
I always snug the body up to the frame kickup in the rear and use the welting or a round rubber pad about 1/8inch thick and drill and tap one mounting hole in each kickup near the top. Use a wide flatwasher here, too.
If your body is mounted forward of the kickup or, god forbid, the kickup actually intrudes into body space don't worry about this.
If your pickup bed is a no-floor "floater" that's all there is to it.
If your pickup bed has a floor and supports any weight you must be sure it is supported by blocks (use hardwood only for your blocks, varnished or painted body color) or pads and securely bolted down to the rear of the frame. You can just drill and tap the top of the frame for this mounting.
That pretty much finishes the mounting of the body except for the usual paint and finish work.
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Member:Dipstick Street Rod Association.
My other car is a train, and last night I put the engine on the ground!!

When I mounted my '27 glass body, I set the body on the frame with the floorboard glassed in place earlier...Since the body didn't rock and I didn't see any appreciable gaps anywhere, I laid down some wide (early type) electrical tape..The kinda rough tape we all used to use and still cuss at!! I put down 2 layers and then reinstalled the body after taking an xacto blade and opening the body bolt holes..I didn't cinch the bolts down tight so as not to stress the glass in any way..The nuts on the body bolts are the nylon lock type that stay where put..The appropriate body washers were used too...There is no body squeek and it's been fine now for several years..The tape was found at a big (good ol) Hardware Store!!!
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Fred P.